Within the 63,000 acres of New River Gorge National River are over 1,400 established rock climbs. The Greatest Show area is the cream of the crop and includes Lynn Hill’s Greatest Show On Earth (5.13a trad) and perhaps the first 5.14a in the East, Scott Franklin’s Mango Tango. Despite its name, the New River is one of the oldest rivers in the world. All their head instructors are AMGA certified rock instructors or single-pitch instructors. Read more. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. It boasts four-star sport and trad lines and has one of the highest concentrations of boulders in the Mid-Atlantic, not to mention water-side cliffs that are reminiscent of Thailand. 5-Days, All inclusive. The New River Gorge CVB and the surrounding areas are all focused on the health and well-being of those in our area. Here is a select list of crags with dry rock in the rain. Of course, bouldering is also an option! The climbing season at New River extends from April through November. Leave historical and natural objects undisturbed for the next visitor. Hide or remove all valuables while climbing, and lock vehicles. Shown here are some photos of the steep classics like Apollo Reed, The Pod, Tobacco Road and more at the Summersville Lake area. If you’re around in October, stop by for Bridge Day, the world’s largest BASE jumping event. Well, do ya, punk? Lots of 5.12 and 5.13 steep sport routes to … If you like to mix brains and brawn in your climbing, the technical nature of the routes will tickle your cerebral proclivities. Their guides are PCGI (Professional Climbing Guides Institute) certified. It could help river advocates fight for cleaner water running through the gorge and should ensure access to the world-class climbing inside the new park boundaries for generations to come. Europe, Mexico. The Sunkist Wall has moderate lines. If you want to get into outdoor climbing as a relative beginner, if you want to improve your already strong skills, or if you just want to explore lots of routes with experts who know the New River Gorge area extremely well, you should definitely choose the New River Climbing School. Please seek qualified instruction before venturing onto the cliffs. can become bootie-trembling slab that ends with uber-technical face climbing, which is guaranteed to put all your skills to the test. Thank you for subscribing to our newsletter. 25846. The last few years have seen an uptick in bouldering locally, in part because of the release of the New River Gorge Bouldering guidebook, which features over 1,000 problems. Water Stone Outdoors has been selling quality outdoor gear in Fayetteville, West Virginia 362 days a year for over 20 years. Join thousands of outdoor enthusiasts subscribed to our newsletter! Each day we'll go to a new climbing area from the New River Gorge to Summersville Lake to put new skills to the test. Glen Jean, WV As you can imagine, this tends to be the most trafficked area during hot weather, though it also makes for a winter destination as its south-facing rocks tend to soak up the sun. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. When you’re 60 feet in the air clinging to a sheer stone face with a few fingers and toes, you may not be thinking about the amazing views, but rock climbing in the New River Gorge is breathtaking in more ways than one. Fern Buttress, a popular climbing spot on the north rim of the New River Gorge near the NRG Bridge, is home to some of the more than 1600 established climbing routes in the gorge. Aaron is a climber and freelance writer. The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. New River Gorge is the first National Park in the great state of West Virginia. Visit the ghost town of Nuttallburg, a former bustling mining community from the turn of the 19th century. Dare I say? Erosion takes much longer than usual because the rock is so hard; the gorge is still only 900ft deep despite its age. Over one million people visit New River Gorge each year, thousands of whom are climbers. You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in our emails. Many of the climbing locations are located miles from roads, and rescue is difficult. Tackle the cliffs in the 1,000 foot New River Gorge on a Lower New climbing and rappelling trip. Camping Our two popular sites for this trip are the Bridge Buttress with a view of the New River Gorge Bridge and Beauty Mountain with a view of the New River rapids. Please do not bathe in the restrooms at park visitor centers. But rain means lush surroundings precipitating verdant greenery… and bugs, so be prepared. Popular areas include classic riverside spots such as Hawks Nest Dam and Cotton Bottom, as well as the good-for-a-rainy-day Junkyard cave. Exposed coal seams are interspersed throughout the stone (which precipitated mining in the area). More Info. Area 51 is easier to access and has long routes. In case of emergency, call 911. Luckily, the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) has done an excellent job of advocating for access over the years. New River Gorge, West Virginia. While climbing can take place any time of year, the best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. The Greater NRG consists of three concentrated climbing sectors: The New River Gorge National River, the Meadow River, and Summersville Lake (Gauley River). Then there’s Meadow Top, which has the region’s highest concentration of moderates, and the Sunshine Boulders, picturesquely situated under the longest single-span arch bridge in the U.S. Helpful. They offer customized climbing instruction, from learning to place your first nut and anchor building, to yoga retreats, and mental training. As it wore away, it left the step-like roofs you’ll encounter. Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away. Kaymoor is a great summer destination featuring shade, steep routes, and big holds, though it stays wet for at least a day after rain. We maintain a low camper to guide ratio of 4 to 1 to maximize experiential learning time on the rock. I had a very positive experience, learned so much and had a great time climbing many interesting and fun routes. Download our free app and discover your next adventure today! The aptly named Summersville Lake offers a respite from the heat, as it can be breezy, shady, and of course, comes with plenty of swimming. The American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic series takes place each September and combines best in class climbing with Southern hospitality. Showers TRIP PLANNING. Showers can be purchased at many of the private campgrounds in the area. Grant has been climbing for over 12 years and teaching in the outdoor industry for a decade. The gorge reaches 1,600 feet at its maximum depth, or about ⅓ the size of the Grand Canyon. You can read more of his work at aarongerry.com, What else should we know before connecting you with the guide? Our rock climbing instruction school is the premier guide service in the New River Gorge. Camping options include a private site, complete with a 10’x10′ wooden tent platform, and a communal area. The best months are usually late April to mid-June, and mid-September to late October. New River Mountain Guides: Climber owned and operated since 1994, and run in conjunction with Water Stone Outdoors. There are plenty of options, but here’s just a few: The American Alpine Club campground has become the climber epicenter. What’s everyone else coming for? Sign up for the 57hours newsletter and join our growing community of outdoor adventurers. Set upon the backdrop of the New River Gorge, you are sure to get amazing views as you climb up rocks and rappel down. The New River is ancient and has pretty much existed in the same spot since before there were Appalachian Mountains. There are numerous markets and eating establishments in nearby towns.establishments in nearby towns. This 5-day overnight camp is geared towards introducing teens to outdoor rock climbing while reinforcing teamwork and cooperation. There are the NRG itself, the Meadow River Gorge and the Gauley River Gorge, which includes Summersville Lake. Check here to review park planning documents and participate in the park planning process. The rock is very featured, and an abundance of crack and face routes are available. “It could start with the route names,” climber Ronnie Black, a Black climber in Vermont who has climbed in the New River Gorge for years, told the Zoom assembly. Spring and fall are the seasons for sending if only the weather would comply. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of hard sandstone and range from 30 to 120 feet (37 m) in height. Water is available at Canyon Rim Visitor Center. Besides the spectacular sandstone, stunning settings, and sheer number of routes (3000 + trad and sport routes from 5.6 to 5.14d), one of the factors that makes the New River Gorge the premier climbing destination in the East is the possibility of year-round climbing. The New River Gorge has become a major rock-climbing destination. The enormity of routes ensure no matter your skill level, there will be an objective for you. A post shared by New River Gorge National River (@newrivernps) The change will go into effect in early 2021, a few weeks into President elect Joe Biden’s tenure. There are over 1,400 established rock climbing routes in the gorge, running the gamut of formations from Utah-style splitter cracks to tricky arêtes. It sits on the southeast corner of the state. The New River Gorge sees over one million visitors each year, and only a handful of those are climbers. Blue Ridge Mountain Guides is the only AMGA Accredited Business operating at the New River Gorge. Photos by Pablo Durana - The "New" is one of the premier climbing destinations on the east coast with thousands of good sandstone pitches from steep sport climbs to splitter crack routes. The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. New River Gorge climbing in Fayetteville West Virginia is considered to be some of the best in the world and consistently rated in the top 5 by climbing magazine. Like history? If you need any gear or beta, visit the storied climbing shop, Water Stone Outdoors. The 3-day fest includes live music, clinics taught by pro athletes, conservation efforts, a pig roast, beer and whiskey, and a glow stick dance party. COVID-19 Update from New River Gorge CVB . The New River Gorge, WV rock climbing is composed of three river gorges - New, Gauley, and Meadow. Picture a lush green landscape with miles and miles of picturesque cliffs. Classic climbs begin at 5.10+ for trad and 5.11+ for sport. Parking and Security He’s keen on trad and bouldering, and sport as well. Zero Buttress is suitable for moderate routes, while First Buttress is steep (and hard) but stays dry. Within the park are over 1,400 established rock climbs. The rock here is harder than granite (though no match for Mr. Eastwood, of course). The cliffs at New River Gorge are made up of a very hard sandstone, and range from 30 to 120 feet in height. A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing estimated that climbers contribute more than $12 million in direct spending to the area, including supporting 168 jobs and $6.3 million in wages. The use of motorized drills is by permit only. the better-known sport climbing mecca four hours west, “Juan Pablo Tellez, Reckless Abandon 12b, The Coliseum – Summersville Lake, WV, Symon Ardila, Lactic Acid Bath 12.d, The Hole, New River Gorge, WV, imprisonment for not more than six months, A recent study on the economic impact of rock climbing. Most of the routes in the gorge favor the advanced and expert climber. MULTI-PITCH CLIMBING. The NRG is a National River and one of the oldest in the world. In times of rain, the Rico Suave Buttress and White Wall at the Kaymoor sector generally stay pretty dry. Always change clothes out of view. American climber Jonathan Siegrist has redpointed a longstanding project in the New River Gorge, West Virginia: Full Metal Brisket (5.15a).It climbs a steep line up hardened West Virginia sandstone with notoriously bad holds. The area splits between crags upstream and downstream from the Highway 19 bridge. They are usually open from the second week of March to about the first of December. A grassroots rock climbing advocacy and anchor-replacement organization in and around WV's New River Gorge. Meadow River Gorge is for more adventurous and remote climbing, even though it’s just 15 minutes north of NRG Proper. COURSES. Impromptu New River Gorge Climbing Trip. Park managers are concerned about the impacts of visitors and climbers in the areas of soil erosion and compaction, vegetation damage, human waste disposal, cultural resources, and overcrowding. He writes about, you guessed it, climbing, travel (17 countries and counting), and has been featured in publications such as Rock and Ice, goEast, and The Project Magazine. As always, abide by Leave No Trace ethics. Thanks Matt! HOME. Great service overall! Summer temps can reach into the 90s, turning the humid air into thick molasses. See the camping page for more information. Second Buttress. Get in-depth reviews and expert advice to help you start planning your next big outdoor adventure. Read the summary of the Climbing Community Meeting held on October 27, 2018. Just one caveat (and a note to the newbies): The New is best suited for the hard-charging climber who likes a challenge. Red Rock, NV. Nearly all climbs are single-pitch and range from 30 to 150 feet in height. What can begin as a bouldery tiered-roof (my favorite!) You’ll find a diversity of movement here. Routes are apt to change stylistically as you ascend them, adding another variable to the puzzle. New River Gorge National Park and Preserve has become one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. More Info. Do not trespass on private land! The local climbers I’ve spoken with say that no one they know has ever been fined but it’s worth noting the area’s regulations. The New River Gorge offers up some of the best climbing in the world. Nothing like a last minute New River Gorge climbing trip! (optional). As a result, the river has maintained its course by cutting a narrow trough through the emerging range. Climbing Area Description This climbing mecca is located in the beautiful New River Gorge National River, with over 1500 routes on impeccable (well, usually) Nutall sandstone. Sandstonia. The cliffs are distinct for being long and with few breaks. The Other Place is well-populated with moderate sport routes and generally stays in the shade. New River Gorge Climbing The New River Gorge is one of the most popular rock climbing areas in the country. Respect all gate, fences, and no trespassing signs. For security reasons, do not leave vehicles unattended overnight at parking areas or trailheads. ... -The Glory Hole – Steep climbing here only!! Email Us. Camping is prohibited within 100 feet of parking areas, water sources, historic sites, or the top rim of the cliffs. A variety of skills and techniques are required to ensure a safe climbing experience. Be safe when climbing in the park. If you’re a big fan of whitewater rafting or climbing, you’re probably already familiar with the New. Meadow River Gorge > Upper Meadow > 3. Gym rats will find these chess matches difficult to muscle through, as I found out (guilty as charged!). Likewise, be sure to stop by Fayetteville, a charming post-industrial town that’s remade itself into an outdoor haven. Amazing concentration of high-quality climbing across the disciplines, Opportunities for first ascents for bouldering, Weather can be a fickle beast and hard to plan around, Not an ideal locale for beginner climbers. Most crags have a 15-minute approach, though longer treks can be up to 45 minutes, with some requiring a ladder or rappel to get to the base. Primitive camping is allowed on park property. Please try again or contact us at support@57hours.com and we’ll resolve the problem. It’s only a few hours from the Red River Gorge, but the sandstone at the New River Gorge feels completely different: think sharp crimps, mail slots, and massive slopers, instead of juggy pockets.While the routes are equally demanding, there is a steep learning curve, and climbers fresh off a sending spree at the Red frequently get shut down as they adjust. TWENTY YEARS AND GOING STRONG! Film from 1997 showcasing some of the best rock climbs in the New River Gorge at the time. ... Red River Gorge, KY. More Info. The area is less developed overall, often requiring longer hikes in. Check here for more information. Briefly, the National Park Service mission is to protect park resources for future generations, while providing opportunities to enjoy these resources at present. New River Gorge National Park was designated as the United State's 63rd National Park. "The New" has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the country. Other activities include riding the Gravity Zipline, a 1.5-mile tour 200 feet above the ground or a down-to-earth walk along the iconic New River Gorge Bridge. He found some awesome climbs for us despite the weather and generally made sure we had a great time. It’s composed of Nuttall sandstone that is 98% quartz and gives the sensation of climbing on classic granitic igneous if it were embedded with infinite sand-sized crystals. Friendly & knowledgeable climbing guides for New River Gorge. Mountain Project's determination of the most popular, highly-rated routes. The prices are reasonable for groups, though they surely explode a dirtbagger’s budget. AKA, bring your head game. Park in designated parking locations -- do not block roads or driveways. You’ve got to ask yourself one question: Do you feel lucky? Date of experience: September 2015. New River Gorge Outdoor and Climbing Gear. Travel Destinations. I went into Labor Day Weekend 2020 thinking would enjoy low key climbs at the gym on Saturday, bike rides on Sunday, kite boarding lessons on Monday. Private Property Share. Climbing Season The Junkyard and Bridge Buttress crags are popular with beginners because of their easy access and lower grades. The Fastest Way to Fix a Backclip. There’s a preponderance of grades from 5.8 to 5.13, with some lines up to 100 feet long, and others severely overhung. With this large number of visitors, park issues develop that can only be solved through everyone's cooperation. He’d eat the bullet-hard Nuttall with Nutella for breakfast, savor the thrill of high first clips, rejoice in brain-and-body-busting maneuvers, and wash it all down with pure-line bouldering alongside one of the oldest rivers in North America. Between these areas, there are thousands of routes! Please, climb smart! It’s catered more to mountain bikers, featuring an on-site bike rental & gear shop and Biergarten (beer garden). The New River Gorge is known as the best East Coast climbing destination for a reason: There are more than 1,500 established climbing routes in the area. The state is known colloquially as “Wet Virginia,” so even a week-long trip in the shoulder seasons has the possibility of getting hosed. While perched at the anchor, you might take note of the world-class whitewater rapids below, or you may encounter mountain bikers bombing down the trails on your approach. Development of this platform was partially funded by EU. Got more time? The New River Gorge — or NRG, as it’s commonly known — offers diverse climbing and over 3,000 established routes total, which is why it’s one of the best places to rock climb in the USA. The greater New River Gorge region is one of the East's largest, most diverse, and highest quality climbing areas. Sandstonia. To be there for a weekend or a summer it’s all the same because when you’re there, nothing else matters, it’s a timeless place. This tropical-lite destination features over 300 bolted and trad routes alongside and above the clear blue water of Summersville Lake. You’ll find over 3,000 established routes to discover in the area, attracting rock climbers from all over the world. New River Climbing School: Specializing in instruction for beginners through advanced climbers, they offer plenty of options for families looking for a weekend of climbing. Lower Meadow: You’ll find more trad lines here along with some classic test pieces. Do not trespass on private property. The main sector, known as the New River Gorge Proper, contains the most developed and accessible crags in the park. Classic Climbs for The New River Gorge. Grab your friends, hit the crag, and settle into the post-send glow with a soak in the hot tub. Many of the developers were over six feet tall, so prepare for long moves and spaced out bolts. That’s high praise for a discipline that currently takes a backseat in the area. Between the three major river gorges- the New, the Gauley/Summersville, and the Meadow- there are over 3,000 established routes on 60+ miles of cliffline, as well as hundreds of established boulder problems. Climbing can be had in the winter at The Cirque at Endless Wall, a southern-facing sector that acts like a convection oven. With that said, it’s hard to beat the variety of fresh local craft beer on tap. Annual rainfall is about 50 inches, which is approaching temperate rainforest levels. Experience, learned so much and had a great time ve got to ask one! Outdoor adventurers through everyone 's cooperation shops, bars, and Meadow praise! Face climbing, the New River Gorge National River is one of the East and West banks of most. Because of their easy access to Kaymoor jumping event 100 feet of parking areas or trailheads budget. Read more of his work at aarongerry.com, what else should we know what we do and... 10 ’ x10′ wooden tent platform, and local climbing shops can offer information and specific recommendations …! As you ascend them, adding another variable to the test from roads, we! The steep cliffs easy access to Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress and White Wall at the New 19! 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